I scrolled through Facebook the other night. Like many people, I have upped my social media intake during the pandemic. As quarantine began and as it has persisted, I’ve felt horror, disbelief, and even numbness as I stared at the dark news on the little gleaming screen. That particular night a caption flashed on my screen – On this day, 1 year ago– and I saw all the pictures that I had posted from our stay at the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden.
Only a year ago, but these photos seem to represent a different life. Somehow though, those photos encouraged me to write, to write in retrospect of a sublime experience that enriched our family’s life and continues to sustain us during these times. It reminds me that adventures await us when we are able and ready to push play again.
THE ICE HOTEL
Situated 200 km north of the Arctic circle, Jukkasjärvi is admittedly a little out of the way. We drove over six hours (360 miles/580 kms) from Tärnaby to reach Jukkasjärvi by late afternoon. Still the drive was pleasant enough and we were delighted when we spotted the reindeer alongside the road (they really exist!) and saw a Google car mapping out the terrain (they really are everywhere!). It was July, but one can easily imagine the fir trees lining the road blanketed with snow.
Opened in 1990, the Ice Hotel, the first of its kind, is miraculously recreated every year when the hotel is built out of 34,000 snow and ice blocks from the Torne River. Hundreds of artists compete yearly to be chosen to create their unique ice and snow art suites. Artists arrive in November from all over the world to create their original ice visions.
In December, the exquisite hotel welcomes its guests to its winter suites until late Spring when the hotel melts back into the Torne River. We stayed at Icehotel 365, which houses the permanent collection of twenty exquisite ice suites that are available year-round.
On entering, I noticed the Ice Chandelier in the main hall first, a glamorous, ornate artwork brilliant with its ice crystals reflecting the light around it.
A long hallway leads to the art suites. Hydro Smack, a favorite, takes you to an underwater dwelling where you are surrounded by dreamy, translucent jellyfish. In Victorian Apartment, the artist fashioned a perfect turn of the century European apartment with a gorgeous library and sitting area. Our assigned suite, Dancers in the Dark, featured two dancers, one striking a pose and the other mid motion, casting dramatic shadows against the ice walls. Light and shadows play against the shimmering, translucent space. The mattresses and blankets made of reindeer hides are the only elements not made of ice. Despite the sub-zero temperatures, Nir and Mia felt very warm in the insulated sleeping bag and woke up to the welcoming sight of warm lingonberry juice along with their certificates of achievement.
Nothing is more charming than sipping cocktails in a stylish glass composed of ice. The Ice Bar achieves a coziness, despite the sub-zero temperature. There’s a lot to catch the eye, from the pig sculpture at the bar and the Fuzzy lion painting, to the assortment of lounge chairs positioned throughout the space. The on-site restaurant features dishes inspired by Swedish classics and Sami culture, combining reindeer, moose, and Arctic char dishes with lingonberries and cloudberries.
Taking in the Ice Hotel in July allows you to experience the dichotomy of a winter ice palace nestled into a summer’s day.
In July, the air is fresh and the days are never ending, giving you hours and hours to have fun paddle boarding, bicycling, and kayaking.
One morning, we strolled down to the main road, passing quaint red cottages along the way. We arrived at the Nutti Sámi Slida, where we learned about the history of the Sami people, their dwellings and their relationship to and their rearing of reindeers. We learned that reindeers lose their antlers yearly, which made me feel a lot better about the antler decor in many hotels and restaurants throughout Sweden. The Jukkasjärvi Kyrka, the oldest church in Lapland, was right next door and open for visits.
TIPS
As a family of four, we chose the Nordic chalet (warm room) for two nights and an ice suite for the second evening. The Ice Hotel is also available for guided tours twice a day. But, if you have the time, I’d recommend the two night stay to really maximize the experience. With two nights and three days, you can really soak up the atmosphere, revisit the art suites at your leisure, and walk around the quaint little town of Jukkasjärvi.
Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the Ice hotel was closed from April 14th July 31st of this year. As of August 1st, the hotel has reopened and is welcoming guests again.